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How do you reserve your spot astatine an Hermès show? A Birkin bag, apparently. Even earlier pulling up to nan Second Chapter of nan Hermès women’s ready-to-wear fall-winter show successful Bel-Air — nan house’s first women’s show successful Los Angeles — photographer Tyler Matthew Oyer was texting maine photos of women astatine check-in clutching their Birkins successful 1 hand, telephone and ID successful nan other. “They are everywhere.” I took a photograph of my yellowish raffia bag, nan grip tied pinch an Hermès equine scarf that erstwhile belonged to my maternal grandmother.
Getting to nan destination was for illustration ascending to a parallel beingness of the Getty, successful akin excursion-like manner — only alternatively of cablegram cars, we gathered into achromatic vans pinch tinted windows that climbed nan mountains other nan museum. After a coagulated 20 minutes of winding roads, we reached nan expansive reveal: a butter-yellow pavilion, delectable and whimsical for illustration a elephantine barroom connected stilts, plastered pinch all-caps neon signage, SILHOUETTES ON THE HORIZON. The structure, designed by Maybe Paris pinch Hermès imaginative head Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, was built from scratch and took 3 weeks to build.
“I smell leather. Do you smell leather?” Keyla Marquez, our manner head astatine large, asked, turning to maine from wrong nan buttery dome, solid of Champagne successful hand. Hermès leather equipment were connected display, including connected Keyla, who wore a vintage achromatic skirt pinch zippers moving up nan beforehand and backmost and a suede top.
The show started unusually connected time, conscionable moments past 7:30 p.m., astatine highest twilight. But from wherever we sat, it was arsenic if we were wrong a sun going up astatine night, nan suspended bands of ray brightening and intensifying our yellowish abode.
The runway looped for illustration Bel-Air’s roads, nan models stepping successful S’s and nan apparel pursuing suit, dresses, ’80s flared pants and silks expanding and trailing down them successful a measurement that brought to mind Audrey Hepburn successful “Funny Face,” snaking down nan steps of nan Louvre successful Givenchy (“Take nan picture! Take nan picture!”). The show notes pointed to “the dancer’s wardrobe” arsenic inspiration, embracing really cloth tin person a mind of its ain — gathering, draping, cascading. “Don’t soft retired nan wrinkles,” a sound complete nan euphony said. Each wrinkle is “a powerful current.” A double entendre for embracing age? I liked to deliberation so, particularly erstwhile nan soundtrack to nan finale came on, Kim Carnes’ “Bette Davis Eyes,” a tribute to nan Old Hollywood character and her timeless, teasing gaze.
I caught up pinch Keyla Marquez aft nan show for her return connected nan evening.
The first impermanent who caught your oculus and why.
Brenda Hashtag. I’m a fan. I consciousness for illustration she’s of a caller procreation of influencers and has a batch to say. She’s really susceptible pinch nan things she says astir being successful nan manner world. She did an question and reply pinch nan Cutting Room Floor astir manner shows and really group don’t opportunity hullo each other, and there’s thing incorrect pinch saying hullo to each other. She’s portion of caller procreation that has much vulnerability. For me, it’s not truthful overmuch celebrities but these group who are changing nan scenery of nan manner manufacture and she’s 1 of them. Even though she said she doesn’t for illustration L.A. [laughs].
Brenda Hashtag.
Three words that picture nan nighttime for you.
Magical, opulent and VIC’s.
Did you person a favourite look?
Yes. The assemblage portion pinch nan flared sound legs. I consciousness for illustration each these designers who grew up successful nan ’80s are bringing backmost nan ’80s successful a really chic way. YSL did this postulation a mates seasons agone pinch socks pinch fringe connected them. That outfit was very reminiscent of that. There’s this caller play connected nan ’80s but not successful a cheesy way. It’s very chic and luxurious.
Monochrome ruled nan runway. Are you squad reddish (“rouge tango”), blue-green (“vert impérial”), yellowish (“jaune flave”) aliases black?
Black and yellow. I would’ve been OK pinch nan bluish not being included. I spot nan ’80s inspiration but I would’ve been OK pinch bluish not being a portion of nan colour palette.
The champion point you ate aft nan show.
Those ovum thingies pinch roe were truthful good. What was successful it even?! The truffle toast was bomb. And of course, Champagne.
Your return connected nan Birkin bag.
The much worn out, nan better.
The point you show nan L.A. haters who flew successful for conscionable a fewer days for nan show.
Get to cognize nan culture. Get to cognize nan existent people. Go to nan eastbound side. When nan only point that you spot are nan influencers and Erewhon, that’s not nan existent L.A. You person to spell to wherever nan civilization lives.
Monique McWilliams and Lauren Halsey.
Lisa Love.
Keke Palmer.
Chloe Fineman and Miranda July.
Misty Copeland.
Kerry Washington.
Jeffrey Deitch, left.
Beka Gvishiani.
Natasha Lyonne.
Nicolai and Simon Haas.
Hermès imaginative head Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski.
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